Dog Training Psychology for Dog Agility

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Adding Distance

Adding Obstacle Focus & Distance to

Your Dog Agility Handling

Adding Obstacle Focus and Distance to Dog Agility Handling

In this article you will learn how to add distance to your dog agility handling?  Why is this important?  Because our dogs can run faster than we can. If a dog is racing through a straight tunnel and has to do a backside jump. it can be quite challenging to cue the dog to take the backside jump. 

If we can lead our dog from a distance, we'll be better able to handle various challenging situations. 

Adding Distance with Weave Pole Rumba


To teach your dog to handle the weave poles independently, so you can move to another part of the course, try this.  Place a reward, such as a toy, ball, or food treat at the exit of the weave poles.  Send your dog into the weaves and let her enjoy the reward when she exits.  If you dog doesn't yet know how to weave at all, we suggest you see training weave poles.

Gradually, move the reward behind another obstacle or at the exit of a tunnel. Once your dog can do the weave poles independently, try running far ahead, trusting her to do her job. Then try adding distractions. I like to fake a fall down and see if Momo will continue. Once day, I want to fake fall down at a trial for fun. Hahaha!

Add Distance with Obstacle Focus



Obstacle focus is the ability of a dog to take an obstacle that she sees unless told to do otherwise. If your dog has obstacle focus you don't have to always run ahead of her and physically or verbal point out the next obstacle to be taken. You can train obstacle focus with shaping and clicker training.



If your dog has obstacle focus and you see your dog looking at an obstacle and moving toward it, that's commitment. When you dog commits to an obstacle you can move on to cue the next obstacle.




Progress Check


True or False?
1. If your dog has good obstacle focus, it is OK if you fall behind your dog.

2. It's important to watch your dog all the way to the final landing ensure it completes an obstacle.

3.It is a good idea to practice cuing your dog to an obstacle when you are off to one side or the other.

4. It is best to run with your dog to the wing of a jump and watch your dog take the jump.

5. It is best to leave when a dog commits to an obstacle.
6. You can tell when a dog commits to an obstacle by watching the dog's eyes. 

When you first start training your dog to take an obstacle, you may need to move fairly close to the obstacle. But you will get better results if you gradually move more and more to the side when cuing an obstacle.



When sending your dog to a jump, look for commitment then move on you do NOT need to run with your dog all the way to the wing of a jump, for example.


When leading your dog before he commits imagine a line emanating from your toes. You can help you dog understand that he is continue along that line and not violate it.



Progress Check (Continued)


7. It is possible to train a dog to take an obstacle of its own accord with very little waiving of the arms.

8. One way to get distance is to run with your dog up to an obstacle and then leave quickly when the dog commits to an obstacle.


9. To get lateral distance you can run with your dog but off to the side of the obstacle close to the next obstacle; for this to work your dog must have obstacle focus .


10. A good way to have lateral distance is to teach your dog not to violate your line.  



Answers


1. If your dog has good obstacle focus, it is OK if you fall behind your dog. That's right!


2. It's important to watch your dog all the way to the final landing ensure it completes an obstacle. No way. It's best to see commitment and then leave before your dog finishes the obstacle.

3.It is a good idea to practice cuing your dog to an obstacle when you are off to one side or the other.  Yes, this is sometimes called "lateral distance handling."

4. It is not best to run with your dog to the wing of a jump and watch your dog take the jump. You will be left behind if you do that.

5. It is best to leave when a dog commits to an obstacle. Yes!

6. You can tell when a dog commits to an obstacle by watching the dog's eyes.  Yes! When your dog looks at the obstacle, he is committing to it.

Progress Check Answers (Continued)


7. It is possible to train a dog to take an obstacle of its own accord with very little waiving of the arms. Yes! Clicker training and shaping is very helpful in teaching this. We'll publish a separate article on how to do this later. 

8. One way to get distance is to run with your dog up to an obstacle and then leave quickly when the dog commits to an obstacle. Yes. Remember to "Step and Go."


9. To get lateral distance you can run with your dog but off to the side of the obstacle close to the next obstacle; for this to work your dog must have obstacle focus. Yes!


10. A good way to have lateral distance is to teach your dog not to violate your line. For example, when cuing your dog to take a backside jump from a distance, point your toes just to the side of the wing as you cue the jump with your arm. Your arm and toes will create a line. In practice, teach your dog not to violate this line. If she does, say "oops" and try again.  When she starts to move with your line, reward her immediately with a secondary reinforcer.


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